Skadarliya (Skadarlija)
Belgrade Montmartre

Words: Elvira Ibragimova
Photo: Dva Jelena

Skadarlija is often called the Belgrade Montmartre, and historically this area was known as the «Gypsy Mahala», the Gypsies lived here back in the time of Ottoman Belgrade. At the end of 19th — beginning of 20th centuries, this area was chosen by Belgrade Bohemia. Skadarlija is known for its restaurants, and many of them have existed for more than a hundred years. The feeling of antiquity is intensified with the pavement. Although the old-timers say that the restaurants on Skadarska street are no longer the same as before, it is still the best place to get acquainted with traditional dishes, the culture of „Kafana“ and the so-called “Old-town” music performed by orchestras with the tambouras. When the evenings are warm, the whole street is full of sounds, as orchestras play not just in every place, but sometimes there are two of them per one „kafana“.


Croquembouche and milk dough-rolls in Vrachar (Vračar)